The most common setup in road cycling is the double chainring or 2x, accompanied by cassettes with 10, 11, and 12 speeds (although older and lower-end groups still use 8 and 9 sprockets). The chainring completely changes the pedaling cadence to adapt to the terrain or gradient. Shifting chainrings too often, even on the same type of terrain, will interrupt your cadence progression and force you to expend more energy to readjust. As a general rule, and for intermediate-level amateur cyclists, a comfortable pedaling cadence for any terrain is between 80 and 90 pedal strokes per minute. The recommendation, as a general rule, is to shift chainrings only when the terrain changes, from flat to uphill or from uphill to flat, and then use the sprockets to adjust your cadence.

You should manage your gear changes correctly and maintain a linear pedaling cadence for as long as possible.

Avoid excessive cross-chaining

With double chainring drivetrains, it is common that, at times and sometimes without realizing it, you cross-chain too much, for example, riding on one of the largest cassette sprockets with the big chainring, or with the smallest sprockets and the small chainring. This has two major drawbacks:

• It will be harder to complete a pedal stroke: cross-chaining generates more friction on the chain and on the teeth of the chainring and sprocket. This will force you to expend more watts than are really necessary.
  
• You will accelerate drivetrain wear: in addition to increased energy expenditure, which will cause fatigue to set in sooner, the increased friction of the chain on the surfaces of the chainrings and sprockets will wear the parts more quickly. This will cause the chain to move less smoothly and quickly, result in skipping, and also affect shifting or cause breakdowns.

There are simple rules you can apply to avoid unnecessary chain crossovers and always have a suitable combination. For example, if you have a transmission with a 10-speed cassette, always use the big chainring with the five smallest cogs. And vice versa: the 5 largest cogs on the cassette should always be used with the small chainring. For other gear ratios (2x9, 2x11, or 2x12), mentally divide the cassette into two groups of cogs, upper or lower, always leaving, in the case of cassettes with an odd number of cogs, one more cog in the lower group.

Don’t stop pedaling when changing gears

A beginner's mistake is to operate the shifters when you are not pedaling, which can cause the chain to skip or become misaligned when you start pedaling again. That's why you should always be turning the cranks at the moment of shifting. And do it smoothly. Applying too much power can cause the chain to skip or come off. In this sense, keeping your cadence within steady parameters, without big changes in rhythm, will make shifting more efficient and faster

Don’t overuse the shifter. Try to stay in the same gear for as long as possible

Use the shifters wisely

There are road cyclists who overuse the shifter, especially the one for the cogs. And this, besides disrupting your rhythm or pedaling cadence, causes greater physical wear and also wears out the drivetrain. Whether climbing or on the flat, try to extend a particular gear as much as you can, while maintaining a comfortable pedaling motion that doesn’t bog you down.

Shift gears smoothly

On the other hand, there is a specific technique to ensure the chainring or cog shift is completed perfectly. On high-end drivetrains, like Shimano Ultegra, Dura-Ace, or Campagnolo Super Record, a gentle finger press will shift the cog quickly. There is no need to push hard, as you can activate multiple shifts and move up two or three cogs without needing to. On mid- or low-range groupsets, you’ll have to press the shifter lever a bit harder and for a slightly longer period to achieve an effective shift without rubbing or skipping. In this regard, we encourage you to take a short ride and get used to the feel of the shifter, so you know the exact point at which the cog or chainring changes. You’ll also be able to identify misalignments, loose cables, etc.

Get yourself a cadence sensor

Maybe they sound like accessories for professionals, but nothing could be further from the truth. A cadence sensor also helps amateur or beginner cyclists to know their cadence data. This will help you improve your pedaling on the bike and manage your strength better. Currently, there are affordable and reliable options on the market starting at 20 euros, compatible (thanks to their Bluetooth connection) with the most used cycling training and cadence measurement apps, such as Wahoo Fitness or Ride with GPS.