The secrets of tubeless: advantages, disadvantages, and practical tips for cyclists

Los secretos del tubeless: ventajas, inconvenientes y consejos prácticos para ciclistas

What is the tubeless system? The tubeless is the most common anti-puncture system for bicycle wheels. In Mountain Bike
it is the widespread trend, but in disciplines like Gravel
or Road
, more and more cyclists are tubeless-izing their wheels. Besides being a reliable solution against punctures, it provides other benefits related to the bike's performance and the cyclist's efficiency. Are you thinking about tubeless-izing your wheels? Do you have doubts or problems with this system? In this guide you have information, and some tips, to make it much easier for you.

👉 The advantages of using tubeless wheels in mountain bike

Tubeless: what it is and advantages

Tubeless refers to the wheel system that works without an inner tube. That is, a hermetically sealed set of rim and tire where the air is held and where sealant liquid is introduced to quickly plug holes or punctures. This system requires the use of specific rims and tires. The rim has a smooth and sealed base, unlike conventional ones, which have holes where the spokes are screwed in.

The tubeless tire is more robust, with reinforced sidewalls and stronger, curved bead finishes. This makes it easier to seat or fit them more firmly on the rim walls, thus avoiding air or sealant leaks.

For about 35 euros, you can find tubeless tires for any cycling discipline.

Tubeless rims and tires are somewhat more expensive than conventional ones. However, the increase in demand has led to a drop in prices. Some models, in fact, cost the same today as certain conventional tires. For about 35 euros, you can find tubeless tires for any cycling discipline.

👉 Tubeless wheels for road bikes: everything you need to know

Tubeless is not only possible with specific wheels and tires. You can tubeless-ize your wheels using a specific kit, which includes special insulating tape that sticks to the rim base and seals the system. You will also need to install a specific set of valves, also included in the kit; they screw directly into each rim.

Advantages of tubeless

The use of tubeless has undeniable advantages for the biker. Very reliable anti-puncture solution. The union between tire, rim, and anti-puncture liquid creates a sealed system and opaque. If it is properly installed, there should be no air or liquid leaks. In case of a puncture in the tire, the liquid dries upon contact with air and solidifies, plugging the hole in a matter of seconds. Reduces weight. By dispensing with an inner tube, you will save between 100 and 150 g per wheel. As there is more space to introduce air, slightly lower pressures can be used, which also affects the balance.

The use of tubeless can allow you to save between 100 and 150 grams per wheel.

Greater grip and traction. Using tubeless allows you to ride with lower pressures without the risk of unseating the tire. The contact surface of the tire with the ground will be greater, so you will gain grip and traction. In addition, the wear of the tire will be more uniform and controlled across its entire surface, extending its useful life.


Disadvantages

But not everything is idyllic with tubeless. It is not a perfect puncture-proof system and has some drawbacks you should keep in mind. It requires more maintenance. Installing a tubeless wheel is more complex than a conventional one. Filling with sealant is not easy for a beginner. Over time, heat or lack of movement (if you stop riding your bike for a few weeks) causes it to dry out and lose its properties. As a preventive measure, it is advisable to do a sealant change every 2 or 3 months. The liquid, when it dries, can even glue the tire beads together and complicate mounting and dismounting. That’s why it’s important to stick to these intervals and use the amount of liquid appropriate for each wheel size.

👉 How often should you change tubeless sealant

It is more expensive than a conventional wheel. The specific tires and wheels, the liquid, the valves, and the rim tape (if you need it to convert)... All these elements represent an extra expense compared to a conventional wheel. To all this, add the purchase of a bottle of sealant with each refill. Frequent pressure losses. At first glance, tubeless is a hermetic system, but the air is not as tightly sealed as in a conventional tube. The impacts the tire receives, or vibrations from the terrain, cause air losses that should be replenished after each ride.

Tubeless retains air in the tire with more difficulty than a conventional tube, so it is necessary to check pressures after each ride.

Having the bike stationary also affects the effectiveness of tubeless. Inactivity increases pressure losses compared to a conventional tire. In addition, the liquid will lose its properties or, directly, dry out. Therefore, we recommend tubeless for cyclists who ride frequently, several days a week. Repairs are more complex Getting a flat with a tubeless tire is much more complicated than with one that has an inner tube. But this doesn’t mean it never happens. When it does, in fact, it’s more complicated to plug the air leak. We can encounter different situations. The sealant might be dry, or there might not be enough in the wheel. Or the hole might be so big that the sealant isn’t enough. If any of this happens, you’ll have to make emergency repairs. For example, using plugs or installing an inner tube, after first removing the sealant. These solutions mean you’ll need to carry specific spares on your rides, and the process can get complicated by sealant leaks.


📺 In this video, you can learn, in a simple way and in less than a minute, how to repair a flat using plugs.


What do I need to convert my wheels to tubeless?

You’ll need the following items:

  • Tubeless rims and tires. If you don’t have a rim specifically for tubeless, get specific tape to seal the rim bed, as well as special valves for inflation.
  • A floor pump or a bike-specific compressor. It’s important that it can put in a lot of air at very high pressure; this will be necessary to seat the tire and avoid leaks from the sides.
  • Valve core remover tool. This usually comes with the tubeless tool kit. It’s a small circular tool you use to remove the valve core to put the sealant in. We recommend carrying one on your rides.
  • Syringe. The process of adding sealant through the valve can be done cleanly and precisely with a syringe with a capacity scale drawn on it. This way you can measure the exact amount of sealant for your wheels.
  • Tubeless sealant. You can find it at any bike shop. We recommend looking for one specific to your type of riding or bike (for MTB or road). The container indicates how much you should add to each tire, depending on its diameter or width. We also recommend carrying a small amount of sealant for emergency repairs.


How to convert your wheels to tubeless? The process in 7 steps

The process of converting wheels to tubeless is not complicated. You just need to follow a series of recommendations and not skip any steps in this process. Broadly speaking, it is as follows:

  1. With tubeless tires and rim, remove the wheel from the bike and let the air out of the wheel, remove the inner tube if you’re still using one, and take off the tire. You only need to do this on one side.
  2. Install the new valve in the hole meant for it. Make sure it is well tightened with its inner and outer nuts.
  3. It’s time to install the other side of the tire and fully seat it on the rim.
  4. Locate the valve at the bottom of the wheel and remove its core with the specific tool. Next, and carefully, inject the sealant liquid using the syringe and a hose attached to its nozzle. The liquid will be introduced into the wheel through it, preventing any loss.
  5. Once the liquid is in, close the valve with its core and inflate the wheel. Quickly introduce a generous amount of air until the tire is seated on the rim.
  6. With the tire seated, rotate the wheel with your hands from side to side and up and down. This way, the liquid will spread throughout the entire circumference.
  7. Finally, adjust the pressure to the level recommended by the manufacturer, or to the one you normally use.

Remember that with tubeless you can ride with slightly lower pressures. Mount the wheel on the bike and get rolling!


Common tubeless issues and how to solve them

We've already said that, although very practical and reliable, the tubeless system has some drawbacks. If you don't avoid them, you'll face problems and failures such as the following: The sealant liquid has dried up and stuck to the tire. This is a common problem when you haven't ridden in a while, or as a result of heat. If this happens, remove the tire and wet the areas with solidified liquid with hot water. You can use a soft brush to scrub and remove the residue. Then, dry the tire and reinstall it on the rim.

Inactivity is one of the greatest enemies when it comes to maintaining a tubeless system.

The sidewalls of the tubeless tire stick together and won't allow you to remove the tire. This is a more annoying problem that requires time and skill to solve. Use several tire levers to separate the sidewalls and detach the stuck parts. If they remain stuck, pour hot water through a gap in the rim using a syringe, being careful not to puncture the tire. The valve is clogged with sealant. This is a real headache for any tubeless user. The dried sealant has ended up clogging the valve, and you can't inflate the wheel normally. Try to remove the valve, taking out the core, and wash it carefully. Also clean the hole in the rim and its surroundings. If the problem persists, replace it with a new one. The liquid doesn't seal when punctured. The cause of this problem may be that the liquid has dried up, or that the amount is insufficient. In a 29'' wheel, you should use between 80 and 100 ml; in 27.5'' wheels, about 60 ml.
You can solve it in three different ways:

  1. Quickly spin the wheel. This will cause the liquid in other areas of the wheel to move and gradually seal the puncture.

  2. Plug the hole with a plug. If it keeps losing air, you can insert a tubeless repair plug with the help of an awl. Both are sold in kits and are inexpensive.

  3. Install an inner tube to return to the conventional system and continue the route.