Keeping your bike chain in perfect condition is essential, whether you practice road cycling, gravel or mountain biking.
This means it must have proper lubrication and the links must not be worn to increase its lifespan. However, you need to be clear about maintenance intervals and know when it is worn out so you can replace it. The proper function of your bike’s transmission depends first and foremost on the good condition of the chain. A dirty chain, with dust, mud, and rust, will make noise, cause skipping when shifting, and won’t mesh well with the cogs or chainring teeth, making pedaling harder. Furthermore, a poorly maintained chain will accelerate the wear of the chainring and cassette teeth, which could force you to replace them prematurely, resulting in extra costs. To get an idea of the difference in replacement costs, changing the chain averages between 25 and 40 euros, with similar prices for both mountain bikes and road bikes. However, replacing the cassette, chainrings (and chain, of course) can skyrocket to 120 or 140 euros for a mid-range groupset. Much more if you have a high-end transmission group. And all of this is without counting labor if you decide to have the replacement done at a workshop.
How do you know if the chain is worn out?
There is a very simple method to know in just a few seconds if your bike chain is worn and needs to be replaced. But this method requires a chain checker. This is a metal or plastic tool sold at any cycling store and it measures the elongation or stretching of the links. The wear of the links will cause them to stretch and begin to create more friction with the teeth of the cassette and chainrings. The chain checker can measure the percentage of elongation, with two main measurements: 0.75 mm and 1 mm, each located on a different side of the checker. You should insert one of the 0.75 mm protrusions into the gap of one of the links and let the other tooth fall onto the chain. If this last one fits easily into another link, leaving the checker completely parallel and attached to the chain, the chain should be replaced because it is worn. On the other hand, if you try to insert the 1 mm side into the links and both protrusions fit, you should also replace the chainring, cassette, and pulleys, as they will also be worn out. In our Instagram post, we explain how to use this tool:
Incompatibilities between chains
It is worth remembering that the average wear of a bicycle chain ranges between 3,000 and 8,000 kilometers. This is a wide margin because deterioration will accelerate or slow down depending on usage, the type of cycling you practice, the quality of the chain, etc. Also remember that if you have recently started cycling, you will inevitably have to change the chain one or more times during the useful life of your bike. And when that time comes, you must choose one that is compatible with your transmission group. It is not advisable to buy a 10-speed MTB chain to use on an 11-speed transmission or vice versa. You should also pay attention to the number of links in the chain. This is indicated on each product and, when installing it on your transmission, you should lay it over the old one so that the number of links, and therefore its length, match.
How to change your bike chain
Changing the chain is a simple operation that, as long as you are a bit curious and handy with mechanics, you can do at home without any problems. But you should always take into account the previous recommendations: make sure that the chain you are going to install is compatible with your transmission ratio (2x10, 2x11, 1x12, etc.) and that it is the same length as the old one.
Tips to extend the useful life of your chain
The chain is one of the bicycle components most exposed to wear from use. But there are certain tricks to delay its degradation. By applying them, it is possible for it to last several years, even if you ride your bike regularly.
Clean and lubricate the chain after each ride
More than a trick, it is almost a basic maintenance operation. After each bike ride, especially if you do MTB, it is necessary to degrease, clean with water, and lubricate the chain. In this article we explain which type of lubricant is most suitable for each situation.
Avoid cross-chaining
On double or triple chainring drivetrains, choose a chainring-cog combination that does not cross the chain, thus reducing friction. In a 2x10 or 2x11 group, the most common on road bikes, combine the small chainring with the five largest cogs and the big chainring for the 5 or 6 smallest ones.
Don’t overuse the gears
Many cyclists use both the rear and front derailleurs more than they should. Sometimes this is inevitable due to the type of route, if it is a carrera, a demanding ride, etc. But intelligent use of the shifters, which means maintaining a steady pace, will make the jumps between cogs or chainrings fewer and will directly increase the chain’s lifespan.
Choose a chain with coating
The recommended thing is to get the replacement chain for the group installed on your bike. If you have a Shimano Deore XT group, the chain should be the one for that group. But within the groups of each brand, and among these brands, there are numerous chain compatibilities, but always between drivetrains with the same ratio (1x11, 2x11, 1x12, etc). At this point, it is possible to customize the drivetrain with a chain with a special anti-corrosion or anti-rust coating (usually chrome), or with a special design, like the flat-surface SRAM Red AXS chain, which guarantees less friction and smoother shifting. Other notable brands with durable chains are KMC, Taya, or Sunrace, which have models compatible with the main groups on the market.
Tuvalum Team
